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The Elements of Pizza: Unlocking the Secrets to World-Class Pies at Home, by Ken Forkish
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good pizza is magic.
Something indescribably wonderful happens when you combine crust, tomato, and cheese and bake them to melted perfection. In this highly anticipated cookbook, Ken Forkish—owner of the beloved restaurant Ken’s Artisan Pizza in Portland, Oregon; the James Beard and IACP Award–winning author of Flour Water Salt Yeast; and one of the most trusted baking authorities in the country—proves that amazing pizza is within reach of any home cook.
The Elements of Pizza breaks down each step of the pizza-making process, from choosing a dough to shaping your pie to selecting cheeses and toppings that will work for your home kitchen setup. Forkish offers more than a dozen different dough recipes—same-day “Saturday doughs” that you can make in the morning to bake pizza that night, levain doughs made from a naturally fermented yeast starter, and even gluten-free dough—each of which results in the best, most texturally sublime crust you’ve ever made at home. His clear, expert instructions will have you shaping pies and loading a pizza peel with the confidence of a professional pizzaiolo. And his innovative, seasonal topping ideas will surprise and delight any pizza lover—and inspire you to create your own signature pies, just the way you like them.
- Sales Rank: #4860 in Books
- Published on: 2016-04-19
- Released on: 2016-04-19
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 10.30" h x 1.00" w x 8.30" l, 1.25 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 256 pages
Review
“If there were ever to be a bible for all things pizza—and I mean all things —Ken Forkish has just written it. The detail that went into this book is so vast and exact that after reading it you will simply never have another question about any kind of pizza, from anywhere in the world.”
—Marc Vetri, author of Mastering Pasta and owner of Vetri
“Ken Forkish is one of the world’s great pie men, so it should be no surprise that The Elements of Pizza is an essential addition to the pizza canon. Forkish’s formidable intellect and knowledge, combined with his can-do spirit, will turn any pizza lover into a pizza maker.”
—Ed Levine, founder and CEO of Serious Eats
“If you’re into pizza—and who isn’t?—The Elements of Pizza is your new holy book. There’s something here for every cook, from weeknight-ready recipes to intricate explorations of dough chemistry. Ken Forkish is clearly a man obsessed, and lucky for us: much has been written about this globally beloved food, but this book has them all beat.”
—Molly Wizenberg, author of Delancey and A Homemade Life
“With The Elements of Pizza, Ken Forkish proves there is no right or wrong style of pizza. The right pizza is whatever you like—and whether you fancy Neapolitan, Roman, New York, or any other style, Ken guides you smoothly through the process. But this is not just a book about crusts and toppings: it is also full of interesting history and fun stories. In fact, this terrific book is itself one of the essential elements of making great pizza at home.”
—Nancy Silverton, chef/co-owner of the Mozza Restaurant Group
“The Elements of Pizza is a cookbook for anyone who loves pizza—particularly those with a deep appreciation for the crust. Ken’s own passion for pizza took him to Italy and across the United States to uncover the techniques and ingredients that make incredible pizza. Starting from the ground up, this straightforward guide provides readers of all skill levels with techniques and tips to master a variety of pizza doughs, and culminates in delicious recipes that prove that great pizza can be made everywhere—especially at home.”
—Nathan Myhrvold, coauthor of Modernist Cuisine and author of
The Photography of Modernist Cuisine
"The ultimate guide to the world of pizza."
— Portland Oregonian
About the Author
KEN FORKISH is the author of the James Beard and IACP Award–winning book Flour Water Salt Yeast, and the owner of the popular Portland, Oregon, restaurants Ken’s Artisan Bakery, Ken’s Artisan Pizza, and Trifecta Tavern & Bakery.
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
INTRODUCTION
IT’S REALLY UP TO YOU.
The hidden reality of pizza is that you can easily make better pizza at home than you can buy at any but the best independently owned, quality-focused pizzerias. All you need are good ingredients—flour, canned tomatoes, and cheese—plus a few tools and a standard home kitchen oven. And some good instruction. Even if you live somewhere that has great pizzerias, imagine making your own—a pizza that you can be proud of and is exactly how you like it. Discover for yourself what different cheeses are like on pizza: splurge on water buffalo mozzarella, see what happens when you seek out caciocavallo cheese, or try adding freshly grated Pecorino Romano. Master thin-crust and Neapolitan-style pizza. Bang out a couple of killer pan pizzas to eat with Sunday football. Serve it with confidence to your family and friends. Making it yourself will give you a greater appreciation for the craft of the pizzaiolos at your favorite pizzeria: you will probably find yourself looking more closely at their shaping technique; the dough they use and its texture; and how it’s topped, loaded into the oven, and baked. By making pizza yourself, you become more intimate with it. It’s seductive. You are more informed, and that understanding leads to better pizza, great pleasure, and plenty of pride.
THE FERDINANDO
Makes one 12-inch pizza
Imagine yourself as the king of Naples in 1782. You want pizza, but you don’t want your wife, Queen Maria Carolina, to find out. So you disguise yourself as a commoner, sneak out of the castle, and slink through the streets to a pizzeria called Ntuono (Tony’s) to satisfy your craving. Pizza is for common folk, not for royalty like you; don’t you know that? You order the same pizza everybody else orders, topped with olive oil, garlic, oregano, and salt, with a little bit of cheese sprinkled on after it is baked. DUDE, she’s going to smell the garlic on your breath!
If it was good enough for Ferdinando to sneak out for, risking the wrath of his royal lady, then it must have been pretty tasty. And this historic pizza of Naples is also a delicious model of simplicity. Like all of the very simple pizzas, it demands an excellent crust.
To bake this pizza, you’ll pass on the broil stage I recommend for most of the pizzas in this book, removing the pie after 5 minutes of baking. The oil and the garlic should be completely done at this point. Any extra baking, or finishing with a broil stage, will burn both the garlic and the bubbles in the crust.
1 dough ball
Extra-virgin olive oil
3 or 4 cloves garlic
0.5 gram ( 3⁄4 teaspoon) dried oregano
Sea salt
15 grams (about 1⁄4 cup) finely grated pecorino cheese
1. If you use a dough recipe that calls for refrigeration, remove your dough ball from the refrigerator about 60 to 90 minutes before baking pizza. Put your pizza steel or stone on an upper rack in your oven no more than 8 inches below the broiler. Preheat the oven to 550°F (290°C) for 45 minutes.
2. Slice the garlic thinly, place it in a small bowl, and drizzle just enough olive oil over it to coat the slices. Use your fingers to ensure each slice is coated—this prevents the garlic from burning. Set aside.
3. Set up your pizza assembly station. Give yourself about 2 feet of width on the countertop. Moderately flour the work surface. Position your peel next to the floured area and dust it lightly with flour. Have the olive oil, garlic, oregano, sea salt, and cheese at hand. Switch the oven to broil 10 minutes before loading the pizza.
4. To shape the pizza, put the dough ball on the floured work surface and flip to coat both sides moderately with white flour. Use the shaping method shown on pages 92 to 95. Transfer the disk of pizza dough to the peel. Run your hands around the perimeter to relax it and work out the kinks.
5. Drizzle about 20 grams (1 1⁄2 tablespoons) of olive oil over the dough. Sprinkle the garlic and then the oregano evenly over the pizza. Sprinkle with sea salt. Turn off the broiler, then gently slide the pizza onto the pizza steel or stone. Close the oven door and change the oven setting to bake at 550°F (290°C). Let the pizza bake for about 5 minutes, until the crust is golden with spots of dark brown. The garlic color rules when to remove this pizza—don’t let the garlic go beyond medium brown, and skip the broil step for this pizza, as it tends to scorch the garlic. Use tongs or a fork to slide the pizza from the pizza steel or stone onto a large plate.
6. Top the pizza with the grated cheese and drizzle a small amount of extra-virgin olive oil over it, and serve whole or sliced.
Most helpful customer reviews
15 of 15 people found the following review helpful.
Foolproof Dough
By D-Form
I make a lot of pizza at home and have been scooping up every new pizza book available. Every pizza book offers something different whether it’s a philosophy on dough, creative toppings or just a good ol’ history lesson. This book, “The Elements of Pizza” by Ken Forkish does a bit of each and is very successful. Ken Forkish is the owner of Ken’s Artisan Bakery, Ken’s Artisan Pizza and Trifecta Tavern, all located in Portland, OR. For this book, he tried to leave his knowledge behind and traveled to Italy to meet with true pizza masters. In the end I feel like he developed his own philosophy on pizza which mixes his knowledge of baking with their knowledge of pizza.
The heart of this book is the dough, as it should be in a pizza book, and it offers 12 different recipes for dough. What I really enjoy is that many of the dough recipes are for similar “New York” or “Neapolitan” style but they vary in the amount of time needed to make them. There are doughs that range from a few hours “I Slept In But I want Pizza Tonight” to a few days “Overnight Levain Pizza”. There are also recipes for pan pizza, bar pizza, Al Taglio and Gluten Free dough. The dough recipes are simple and use only water, salt, dried yeast and flour. Some recipes require a starter which is made with the same ingredients.
Prior to the dough section of the book there are five chapters, “The Soul Of Pizza”, “Pizza Styles”, Eight Details for Great Pizza Crusts”, “Ingredients & Equipment” and “Methods”. The “Soul of Pizza” really touches on the history and philosophy of pizza making in Italy and the Eastern United States. I really enjoyed this section of the book, the insight provided by his visits to some of the best pizza places in Italy is priceless. After reading about one of his visits I was visualizing the awkwardness he felt in the 15 minutes while getting schooled by an Italian master. This book does exclude any major discussion of California or Chicago deep dish style pizza.
The next section describes (in about a page for each pizza) what to expect when you cook each type of pizza. Each style is concluded with bullet points talking about the desired results for the crust, sauce, etc. This may be the first book that dedicates any space to American Bar Pizza, which is a pizza with no outer layer of crust.
Chapter 3 is where the author really starts to define his own pizza philosophy which has a huge focus on crust. The eight tips for great crust discuss topics such as hydration, time, temperature, salt, mixing and climate. The brief narrative on hydration really helped me understand why my previous pizzas were coming out so different when using my home oven vs. my outdoor oven.
The methods sections is very helpful and describes each of the steps used to make the pizzas. The key steps are shown in photographs and describes in narrative form. While making my first dough I found myself turning to this section over and over as I worked through the recipe. For some folks there could probably be more pictures but the pictures included are of the most important parts.
I tested the “24- to 48-Hour Pizza Dough” recipe and was sort of scared at first. The dough was extremely sticky to work because of the 70% hydration level. I followed the instructions closely from mixing, kneading and shaping and the dough stayed pretty sticky the whole time. Mr. Forkish isn’t really scared of adding extra flour to the mix to keep it less sticky but I was tentative due to some previous pizza books I’ve read. After the 2nd fermentation and letting the dough warm up for 90 minutes I found that it was no longer sticky (I increased my extra flour at this point) and it was a pleasure to work with. It stretched so easily and basically shaped itself. In other books I’ve had trouble getting my dough to stretch to the listed size (even after weighing my dough balls) but this dough actually exceeded the size, and was hanging over the edge of my pizza peel. I made the dough using King Arthur Flour.
The dough I created resulted in three dough balls, I used two and cut the third in half to let my kids make their own pizzas. For the first pizza we made the Margherita and Arugula and followed the recipe closely. Our second pizza was a made up concoction of smoked gouda, mozzarella and caramelized onions. The kids made a pizza with tomato sauce, olive oil, soppresata, and olives and one without sauce.
The author uses a pizza stone or baking steel and utilizes a combo of the oven and broiler in all the recipes. Unfortunately our oven does not have a broiler and the temp maxes out at 50F less than his recommended cooking temp (our oven is not normal). We did use a baking stone placed in the middle of our oven and we heated the oven for an extended time. We prepared the pizza on a wooden peel and slid it easily onto the stone (I have had a lot of practice). The pizza was finished in about 6 minutes. The crust was beautiful, although not as deeply brown as those in the book, airy, the bottom was thin and crisp. Although crisp it was foldable. The texture of the crust was perfect. The flavor of the dough was above average but I think using a longer fermented dough could elevate it to great. As I mentioned before the dough was extremely easy to work with. My 5 & 7 year old children both stretched and made nice looking mini pizzas.
Although my review commented mostly on the dough aspect of this cookbook the actual pizza recipes all look really great. There are over 35 recipes ranging from Italian, New York, Ken’s Pizza Classics, Flatbreads, Vegetables and Other. The recipe section (and the rest of the book) are filled with delicious looking photos.
Overall I would recommend this book to a pizza maker of any level. I really enjoyed the pizzas we made from this book and am going to make one of the longer fermented dough recipes soon. The tidbits of information that Ken Forkish adds into many sections about hydration, oven temperature and fermentation make this book worth having in my collection. The recipes and photos make it a pizza book I’ll use often.
I received this book from Blogging for Books for this review.
18 of 19 people found the following review helpful.
Genius guide to making perfect pies at home
By Kat L
The Elements of Pizza is formatted fairly similarly to the author's previous masterpiece: Flour Water Salt Yeast. There is a very lengthy introduction covering the soul of pizza (at least as it relates to the Naples, Rome, and New York regions as well as American pan/bar pizza and flat breads). If you're hoping for a book that covers Sicilian pizza or Chicago-style pizza or St. Louis-style pizza, then this is not the book for you (or at least, you'll need another one). Ken focuses on a few pizza styles and dives into what makes them so great and how to recreate them in your home kitchen. Ken's advice spans 40 pages of text and accompanying photos, wherein he explains the key ingredients for making great pizza, the necessary equipment, and the right methods for working with pizza dough. His explanation of the two techniques for loading pizza onto the stone from the peel is both humorous and brilliant - here's hoping it helps me not botch the first pizza of the night like I normally do.
As far as the actual recipes go, there's a fair amount of diversity in both dough recipes and topping suggestions. A couple of the recipes are almost identical to their sibling recipe from Flour Water Salt Yeast (at least the Saturday and Overnight doughs), but with at least one difference. Ken writes that he does not follow the autolyse process he promoted in FWSY given the traditions of pizza-making. He's modified his sauce recipes slightly too and none of the various topping recipes except the Margherita overlap. Also - there is one gluten-free dough recipe, with a great discussion on how the flour brand/mix can affect the final dough.
Ken's instructions on how to assemble and bake a variety of pizzas and flatbreads are clear and encouraging. You might be a little anxious about turning your oven up so high (550 F) - his books are the first I've read calling for that high a temperature. However, his method works and yields sublime pizzas. Definitely a must read for anyone who wants to learn more about the art of pizza making and dough chemistry. Even if all you're looking for is the "I slept in but I still want pizza" recipe plus the right baking method, this cookbook is worth every penny.
13 of 14 people found the following review helpful.
Gorgeous Book, Delicious Pizza, So Much Variety!!! And finally authentic Italian dough!
By whiterabbit
The first thing that stands out about this book is the helpful way in which the sections have been arranged. There is an absolutely gorgeous introduction chapter called appropriately The Soul of Pizza, and for the first time when reading a cookbook I found myself immersed in a wonderful story of pizza and the regions of Italy that take pizza to levels of yummy perfection. It is a carefully researched and beautifully written story and I actually read it all the way through (something I never do with cookbooks). I guess that is because The Elements of Pizza is actually much more than a cookbook. It embraces all things pizza, not least of all pizza's Italian origins and the wonderful culture it arose from. Ken Forkish does an amazing job of capturing the beauty of the Italian country (amazing amazing photography wow), and the skill and dedication of pizza artisans there who have been perfecting their skill for generations with loving dedication. His descriptions of the consistency of crusts and the various regional tastes is nothing short of miraculous. I mean I could really imagine the taste and texture of the pizza. It is a mouth-watering and very inspiring journey into the world of pizza.
Instead of finding a bunch of pizza recipes attached to a couple dough recipes, as in most recipe books, I discovered in this book a whole chapter talking about nothing but dough. And by that I mean to say there are 12 different pizza dough recipes plus one gluten-free pizza dough recipe. They are divided into helpful categories based on time it takes to make the doughs, starting with 5 fairly fast doughs, followed by refrigerated doughs that take 24, 48 or 72 hours respectively, followed by a couple naturally-leavened doughs, and then some more specialty doughs. In other words, this chapter alone has taught me all I need to know about every pizza dough I could ever want to make. Wow. I am absolutely delighted. Big smile on my face. It takes all the confusion and uncertainty out of the process and helps one master the whole world of pizza dough in short order. I am sure it will take lots of practice to actually master the making of the doughs, but at least here there is a clear and solid foundation to build on. I just love it!
I also love the subsequent chapter that is divided into sections, to give pizza recipes specific to each region. It starts with recipes that are true to Italian and/or Italian-style pizza. Followed by New York style recipes, and then a section of Ken's own artisan creations, and then specialty recipes, some Trifecta flatbreads, and then vegetable and other recipes. This amazing and comprehensive chapter starts with a bunch of recipes for pizza sauce alone, including 2 ways of making basic tomato sauce, FWSY sauce (Flour Water Salt Yeast), Vodka sauce, and New York pizza sauce.
There is a whole chapter dedicated to talking about details for making Great Pizza Crust... an extremely helpful resource... with beautiful photos. I feel like it is an actual pizza-making class, at a height I could only previously dream of attaining. Ken Forkish makes it seem so simple and elementary. It is very well written and an invaluable resource. Again, a beautifully strong foundation with which to begin a pizza making journey... practice will make perfect, I trust. Honestly, even my most scatterbrained attempts at making pizza have been delicious and yummy. One can hardly go wrong with pizza. It is a food of the gods.. hehe... but this book is something else. It will take your pizza skills to new levels and enable great control over the crust consistency and texture and taste. This is something I had not mastered before. And this book gives such a variety of different styles and types of dough that I will never again be stuck making just the one kind of pizza, as I have been. The taste and consistency of the dough is shown to be the real king in pizza, more so than the toppings themselves. The toppings are wonderful in this book and beautifully varied. But the dough is really what I am excited to work with here. And I can't wait to compare side by side the different tastes of Italian vs New York style pizza, both of which I have always loved.
In conclusion, this book is really not to be missed by any pizza lover. It is comprehensive, beautifully presented, and the photography is plentiful and stunning. it will teach and inspire anyone, I think, to delve into the exciting world of pizza making. And it gives a passionate and loving history of the art, with a detailed study of pizza making in Italy. Ken Forkish actually went there and worked and talked with some of the greatest pizza artisans in Italy. And it's all in this book, with photos of the pizzaiolos (pizza makers) that he talked to, and photos of their establishments. And some really inspired shots of Naples too. This is the most passionate, authentic, helpful, delicious book on pizza I have ever seen!
PS: FYI ...My pizza making, personally, is in a 30" Viking gas oven, and more recently in a Uuni 2 wood-fired (900F) pizza oven (amazing birthday present thank you dear hubby). The Uuni 2 bakes pizza super fast so the times of baking have to be adjusted accordingly... Great for the thinner crust pizzas
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